Chaotic Cairo
Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009
So, as you could probably tell from our last entry, our trip to Cairo did not exactly start off on the right foot. We arrived at the international terminal to dozens of hecklers attempting to coax us over to their various storefronts so that they could rip us off with tours, hotel shuttles, etc. We did our best to ignore their aggressive tactics and finally found the Budget Rent A Car “office” hidden in the far corner of the arrivals area. Our rental experience was pretty much the most atrocious thing we have ever encountered since the rental “agent” was chain smoking and talking on his cell phone throughout the entire transaction and made us wait around for nearly an hour while he took his good old time preparing our rental forms (there was no computer, printer or modern technology anywhere in sight, so everything had to be written out by hand). Once our paperwork was complete, the agent locked the “office” and took us to the airport shuttle so that we could ride 10 minutes to a shady off-site parking lot where the car was parked. It was completely unnecessary to note the existing damage to the car aside from simply noting that it was the biggest piece of crap on the road. Since the agent did not have any maps available for customers and laughed at us when we asked if he had a GPS, he offered to have 2 of his friends accompany us for the first part of our drive until we reached the main road that leads to Giza. We agreed since we did not have much of a choice and watched as two grown Egyptian men squeezed into the one remaining back seat. Although they were rather friendly, we were beyond frustrated at this point since you really shouldn’t have to bring random strangers with you in order to find your way in a car that you just paid over $200 for. After about 20 minutes, we dropped off the men in the middle of the highway (as they requested) and continued to our hotel. The drive was absolutely ridiculous (to say the least) since the highway was a virtual free-for-all between the non-existent driving rules and pedestrians attempting to cross the sprawling lanes of traffic regardless of the various medians and barriers erected to prevent such activity in the first place.
We finally made it to our hotel, but there was no sense of relief as we had hoped for. We were greeted by armed guards and bomb-sniffing dogs who had to search our vehicle before we could enter the premises. Luckily there were no drugs or weapons hidden in our 2003 Daewoo POS and we were ushered past the main gate. Once inside the hotel, another checkpoint with a metal detector stood between us and the check-in desk, but luckily we made it through without incident. We checked into the hotel and finally got on the elevator that would finally take us up to a clean, quiet place to decompress. Or not.
Although we were placed on a non-smoking floor of the hotel, they must have made the switch fairly recently since our entire room smelled like an ashtray. Not only that, but the furniture and carpeting appeared to have been purchased from a third world thrift store more than 2 decades ago and probably hadn’t been washed since. I looked at Mike (who also looked shocked that Le Meridien would put their name on such a dump) and finally broke down. Not only did I feel completely vulnerable since we had arrived at the airport, but our hotel did not offer any amount of calm or comfort to improve the situation. Mike quickly got on the phone and called Star Alliance. If there was any possible way to get out of Cairo, we would do it. Fast.
After almost an hour on the phone, Mike had us on a flight to Rome the next morning and notified the hotel that we would be checking out early. I was already having major anxiety about the drive back to the airport the next morning, but I didn’t care. I just wanted out of Cairo as soon as possible.
Unfortunately, there was one slight problem with our new plan. Since it was after 4:00pm, the pyramids were already closed for the day and they would not open until 8:00am the next morning. There was no way for us to take our wedding photos at the pyramids. We went down to the Concierge and asked if there was any way to get close to the pyramids that night or early the next morning. He told us that there were 3 “Light and Sound” shows each night (1 each in English, German and French), but that they did not begin until after sunset. We decided to book the earliest show (which was in German, to Mike’s delight) and keep our fingers crossed that there would be enough light to get our photos. At 7:45pm, we met the bus in front of the hotel and made our way to the pyramids with our wedding outfits in tow. Unfortunately, we made it to the pyramids slightly too late and there was not enough light to capture the shots before the show began. We hoped that the pyramids would remain lit after the show so that we could try to snap some shots of us in the dark, but they turned the lights off immediately after the show. Bummer.

The light show itself pretty much cheapened the whole pyramid experience for us. It started off with a group of men marching out in traditional outfits, playing the bagpipes until the main show began.
The light and sound show itself was a glorified third grade history lesson involving the story of the pyramids and the kings buried beneath them.
It combined projected images (such as a face on the Sphinx) with colored spotlights and laser lights in order to effectively ruin any ideas of grandeur that our teachers instilled in us about the pyramids during our youth. Oh, and there was a pack of wild dogs that ran in front of the audience during the show as well – nice touch. Long story short…it sucked. Luckily, we managed to get some decent pictures of the whole area lit up, but there was no opportunity to get a picture of us in front of the pyramids. Oh well.

The next morning we debated trying to walk as close as we could to the pyramids to get a photo, but the delayed sunrise and heavy fog quickly quashed that idea. Instead, we snapped a few shots from our balcony and packed our bags (which took about 2 seconds since we had barely unpacked in the first place).

Luckily we left ourselves plenty of time since it took the garage nearly an hour to find our car. After paying off 5 guys who were standing around “helping” us, we got in the car, locked the doors and started the drive to the airport. Somehow we managed to make it back without incident (even without a map, GPS or 2 Egyptian men in the back seat), but once again, we encountered another bump in the road. The Budget guy was nowhere to be found. We had called ahead to let him know that we were leaving 2 days early and would arrive at the airport within in the hour, but once we go the office, the door was locked and no one seemed to know where he had gone. The agent from the Hertz “office” agreed to accompany us to the shady parking lot and fill out our return paperwork (even though he did not work for Budget and had no affiliation with the company at all) since the Budget guy was not around. He hopped in the backseat of the car, directed us to the parking lot, jotted down our mileage and rode the shuttle with us back to the terminal to complete the “transaction”. Once we returned to the Budget “office,” the shady “agent” had returned and was back to “work,” talking on his cellphone and chain-smoking cigarettes. He looked extremely thrilled to see us (NOT) and almost managed to acknowledge us while he chatted to whatever shady friend he had on the phone. He once again took his sweet time filling out our paperwork even though he knew that our flight was leaving shortly. After a good 45 minutes of waiting, we finally made it back onto the airport shuttle so that we could check-in at the international terminal. Free at last! Or not.
Once we made it to the check-in counter, the agent told us that they had no record of our tickets. Fantastic. She told us to go to the far end of the terminal and ask the ticket desk for our ticket numbers since her records only showed up as “Paper Tickets”. We ran across the terminal and got in line behind a 70-year-old Egyptian man who didn’t seem to understand that the agent could not accept his wad of cash (that he pulled out from what appeared to be his undergarments) in exchange for a ticket right there on the spot. Our anxiety was building at this point since we still had to check-in, make it past security and find our gate in a very limited amount of time. After we talked to the ticketing agent and got our actual ticket numbers, we ran back across the terminal and handed the numbers to the check-in agent. Still no luck. She told us to sit down while she called her boss to come over and resolve the problem. Another 30 minutes or so of waiting and we finally had 2 tickets out of the chaos.
We ran to the passport counter and waited another 20-minutes for the agent to figure out what a computer was and finally made it to our gate just in time to wait in line for another 15-minutes to get past security so that we could wait in another line for another 20-minutes in order to board the shuttle to the plane. Once on the plane with the door shut and the wheels up off the ground, we almost felt a sense of relief. Until the announcement. A passenger was ill and needed a doctor. Any doctors or nurses on board should hit their call button and notify the flight crew immediately. Crap. With 3 hours of flight time ahead of us and only 30 minutes behind us, we began to worry that we would have to turn around and head back to Cairo. Please, no. There was no doctor or nurse on board, but the crew decided to continue onto Rome. Thank goodness. We finally caught a break. Until the puking began. The sick passenger began vomiting violently for the last 2 hours of the flight. Although the crew attempted to clean it up and spray as much air freshener as possible, the stench on the plane became almost unbearable as the flight finally began to descend.
Once we landed in Rome, we parked as far as possible from the terminal and waited for another bus to shuttle us to freedom. As the passengers loaded onto the bus, things were fairly calm until Queen Pukes A Lot decided it would be a good idea to join us. Quickly, the same stench that had haunted us for most of the flight filled the shuttle and caused a near riot. The other passengers, already furious that the flight had been such a disaster, began shouting at the sick woman in Italian, asking her to get off of the bus and take her puke smell with her. No luck. Another 15 minutes of the horrible odor and we were at the terminal. Free at last.
We made it through customs in record time, collected our luggage, hopped in a cab and arrived at the St. Regis Grand Rome in less than an hour. Although the hotel is absolutely gorgeous, I didn’t even care at this point. There was no shady rental car to deal with, no metal detector, no bomb-sniffing dogs and no cigarette smell in our hotel room. We had clean sheets, a shower without stains from wall-to-wall and finally felt safe in our surroundings. I love Rome already.













